From Russia With LURVE

ZOO

2009-06-04T01:59:00.000-07:00

I must admit that this was the only picture I felt like taking at the Zoo and although I loved the way the owls are lined up, one can't help feeling they look a little forlorn.

I didn't like the way the big cats were in quite small cages. In the modern world we are so used to seeing animals in wonderful settings, safari parks etc. that it is difficult to see animals in these circumstances and the hardest hearted would be moved to realise that these animals have a pretty rotten deal.

What is the point of having these beautiful creatures all caged up when it is so easy to access magnificent and intimate images of wild animals these days?

CITY BEACH AND THE GULF OF FINLAND

2009-06-04T01:45:00.000-07:00

The second picture is actually a beach in front of the Peter and Paul Fortress. It's amazing that this was completely covered in deep ice and snow just a few weeks ago and incredible that there is a beach in the City!

The top image is the beach at the Gulf of Finland. I took pictures a few weeks ago and the sea was ice and people were skiing on it. It is just a short journey from St.Petersburg and good for a day trip. I must confess that this is a particularly nice part of the beach. We were disappointed to discover that further along it was rather covered in a lot of rubbish swept up from the sea. It would be so easy to clean up at the beginning of the season and make a lot more pleasant for people to enjoy.

There were people in the water. I don't think it would pass any cleanliness regulations and I wouldn't swim in it.

We were quite surprised to walk past a nudist part of the beach. We should have guessed, it was the area where more people (particularly males) were standing up to sunbathe instead of the traditional 'lying down' method! Glad I was wearing my dark glasses!

JUNE AND WHITE NIGHTS RETURN

2009-06-04T01:30:00.000-07:00

The speed with which winter disappeared and summer arrived was quite remarkable.

The buds on the trees burst open and produced flowers much faster than in a less harsh climate. Unfortunately, they will disappear in September pretty quickly too.

It's now much harder to sleep knowing that it's broad daylight outside. It does get a little dark around midnight or half past until around 3.30 a.m. but those twilight hours will diminish to nothing very quickly as midsummer arrives. I now understand why Russians seem to hibernate in winter and stay up all night in the short summer. I can't stop looking out of the window when I am supposed to be sleeping!

We have darkened curtains but it is surprising how much light comes in from the sides.

The river boats are out in vast numbers and the tourists are returning.

It's great to have all the little extra bars and cafes open along the river and canals.

We have carnival in the streets and a lot of free entertainment.

Suddenly it's a joy to be in this City!

Duran Duran and Anastasia are doing a free concert in the Hermitage square tonight to open the Economic Forum.

I am a little concerned about getting out to the airport for my trip to UK this afternoon due to the arrival of numerous delegations from around the globe and a lot of streets being closed.

SUMMER AT LAST!

2009-06-04T01:27:00.000-07:00

Why do the fellas like St.Petersburg so much?

GULF OF FINLAND

2009-04-17T06:38:00.001-07:00

A Cold Day Trip!

It was about an hour on a very, very slow train to reach the Gulf of Finland. I was desperate for the loo but it was locked. I was assured by Mike that this was probably a good thing as the the loos on the Russian trains consist of a very nasty hole in the floor where people seem to have trouble hitting the target. I preferred to be uncomfortable until arriving at a cafe at our destination.

It always surprises me that in a cold, fairly miserable climate that the owners of many cafes would choose to paint and decorate their entire premises in a rather dull shade of blue with matching nets and drapes. The plastic flowers in a jam jar and a more than once used blue tablecloth complete the picture. It took some imagination to see that this place was the venue where all the local people congregate for celebrations of all types. No wonder they like vodka so much.

It was a short walk to the sea from the train station and I was delighted to pass the beautiful green dacha, seen in the above picture, which, as you can see, I enjoyed painting! I suppose all of the houses by the seaside used to look like this but nowadays they have been replaced with very modern abodes, owned only by the seriously rich.

We were amazed to see that the sea was completely frozen and that the weekenders enjoy skating and skiing out for miles on the ice landscape. It looks worrying but I presume they know what they are doing. Although it was reported that somebody disappeared in the Gulf last weekend. He was on some sort of snowmobile and just went through the ice. Well.......

There were hundreds of figures to be seen such a long way from the shore line that they looked like tiny dots until they would ski towards us.

It was a strangely beautiful place and very quiet.

BEAR!

2009-04-09T06:40:00.001-07:00

What can I say? I saw it for real, this little baby bear was being taken for a walk just like a dog. It was very cute and very upset and crying inside the muzzle. This poor bear had a very wild smell. This is not an animal to be taken for a walk, it really needs it's freedom. I am not an animal rights enthusiast or anything like that but it was not a happy bear. How can keeping a bear be permitted anyway? If nothing else, it has really sharp, long claws.

There is a 'big top' circus in the city and I am wondering if they allow people to take care of the animals whilst they are babies so they get used to humans from the beginning and are separated from their mothers? I will have to find out.

GOODBYE WINTER?

2009-04-08T21:21:00.001-07:00

I couldn't resist posting one more winter scene before I hang up my snow boots for the summer! This is taken from my corner window in the main room and is over the top of the little park. I might paint this one.

THE WEATHER

IS looking more promising now but I keep my fingers firmly crossed as it is only April 9.

We have mini icebergs floating down river from the Gulf of Finland which I will try to capture on camera over the weekend.

Yesterday the sun shone all day and when we came out of the ballet performance of Don Quixote at 9.00 p.m. it was still broad day light. The light didn't fade until 9.40. The very long daylight hours are arriving really fast.

The problems with the weather in April are two-fold.

The DUST is horrendous. Once the snow and ice recedes the filth left behind has been ground down by the ice to very fine dust which casts a fine layer over the ground and over everything else. The traffic stirs it up horribly and makes it really unpleasant to walk next to the road with dust blowing in the eyes and nose. The street workers exacerbate this problem by trying to sweep it up with garden brooms (the witches type) and all they achieve is to whip it up more. This would be a nightmare for anyone with lung problems.

They close the PARKS for the whole of April! Yes, just as the weather is nicer and there are the inkling of tiny buds on the trees and the birds are singing, they CLOSE THE PARKS! Well, this is very frustrating as I have been longing for my daily exercise routine to resume and discovered this yesterday when I ventured out in running clothes and trainers. I was not defeated, however, as I trotted along the roads with dust flying in my eyes and nose!

The reason for closing the parks is to get them in order for the summer. Understandable because the paths and grass have had an absolute hammering over the winter, I just wish it was done one at a time!

Whilst waiting for Mike to show up at the Alexandra Theatre last night, I stood with all the others waiting for their partners to show up, opposite the theatre along the park railings in the beautiful sunshine, 6.30 and warm on the face, a well deserved treat!

RANDOM BLOG FODDER

I have met a lady who has recently arrived. She comes from Berlin and speaks excellent Russian. We were chatting about her childhood in Eastern Germany and the compulsory Russian lessons (she is finding that pretty useful now!) and I went on to ask her about where she was when the Berlin Wall came down.

She told me that when they heard the news from a neighbour it was all very confusing and they didn't believe it at all. They turned on the television to see the leader of the country more or less say that 'OK, we give in, we believe the wall is coming down, so be it'.

They were amazed and slightly afraid. Her and her husband and children all held hands and walked through some broken down wall to Western Germany. They were really afraid that the wall would be barred and they wouldn't get back again.

Her husband very quickly made the decision to take the car and to move the family immediately over to the west. He had a good job in the communist factory as a manager of an enormous power machinery organisation who were then taken over by a huge western company and he became a very successful executive within that company.

This story warms the cockles of my heart!

WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?

2009-04-08T01:04:00.001-07:00

After an evening tour of the Hermitage to take a look at the temporary exhibition of the history of the 'Silk Route', one of the privileges of living in this City and being a 'Friend of the Hermitage', we decided to take a light, late supper at a nearby Azerbaijani restaurant.

I ordered what I thought was a chicken kebab salad only to receive, to my horror, the above! You can see it was enormous (not to mention almost rubber-like) and the vegetables you can see surrounding it are all pickles! As Mike had a very modest looking meal, this looked horribly greedy! I took it home in a doggy bag to make soup from it. I had to cook it for ages to make it tender, well, what with the economy and all that!

Wouldn't it have been nice if the young waitress had suggested that it might not be the right choice for madame?

A DOG!

2009-04-08T00:59:00.000-07:00

There is a habit of dressing dogs in this City in the winter for obvious reasons but I found this dog in his outfit particularly appealing. He looks like a workman on his way to a job!

ANOTHER APRIL FOOL'S JOKER!

2009-04-08T00:50:00.000-07:00

This handsome hunk I pass nearly every day on my way to the shops. There are four of them, one on each corner of the bridge. This is the most gorgeous and actually the bandanna and hair only emphasises his beauty! I never pass him without a glance! Oh yeah, the horse is quite nice too.

APRIL FOOL

2009-04-08T00:35:00.000-07:00

Some people here hate any relics left from the communist era. Quite understandable really. Others feel that they represent an important reminder of recent history of Russia and should remain. This particular Lenin statue stands outside Findlyanskiy train station, St.Petersburg's main station and it's really imposing. However, some jokers thought it would be fun to blow a hole in the back of Lenin's pants with dynamite! This was apparently quite a big explosion and the authorities were not amused, however, I think everyone else read the article in the local paper with slight amusement. Of course, it was dangerous and that isn't funny but Lenin will be repaired only to the extent of making it safe and then will remain with the damage to the seat of his pants. I think that is a fair compromise!

RANDOM BUT INTERESTING!

2009-03-05T06:57:00.001-08:00

FISHING WINTER STYLE

This chap seems to be enjoying himself out on the main river. Sometimes they put a tent made of polythene around them to keep warm. Doesn't look much fun to me and I am not sure if I would eat fish out of the Neva.

THE ICE BREAKER

I love the impression the ice breaker leaves on the river. They break it up quite regularly. The river isn't passable until the ice is gone though. I think they break it so there is some movement or the ice cracks and then builds into sort of icebergs which when on the move would put pressure on the bridges. That all sounds feasible doesn't it?

THE SWIMMING POOL CHURCH

During the soviet times a lot of churches were made into public swimming pools (unimaginable but true). This morning I was invited with the International Women's Club to visit the above church to pick out some paintings which have been donated by the artist Matt Lamb to the Club to auction for charity. The paintings are being stored in this church. You can see the stands at the side which were used when it was converted to a public swimming pool and the church has decided to keep in place. What a reminder! Personally, I think it's easy to imagine it as a swimming pool.

ICE IS NICE

2009-03-05T06:31:00.001-08:00

OR ICE CAN BE NICE!

Here are three examples of what ice is all about at the beginning of March in St.Pete's.

First, let's look at the size of the icicles. Yes, they would and DO kill people. A lot of people here say they have had close encounters with them. When the temperature rises slightly, they are likely to drop off from a high building without warning (they don't shout 'fore'!). They weigh a kilo or two at best and several kilos at worst. On the thawing days I am almost inclined to walk around wearing a crash helmet. However, the buildings are obliged to cordon off the areas of danger but they are not to be trusted so extreme care must be exercised. At the same time as perusing the tops of the buildings for falling ice burgs, don't for one minute take your eyes off the pavement as you are likely to go flying on very hardened ice, in places several inches thick. I sympathize with the authorities because it thaws and re-freezes so often that it is impossible to keep it safe. However, this does make the trip to the supermarket far more fun than normal.

Now let's take a look at the drainpipes. Again, when there is a thaw, you can be walking along the street when suddenly you hear a large rumble noise coming from somewhere above and quickly moving downwards before the ice simply shoots out onto the pavement, sometimes containing bottles and glass, (people party on the rooftops here). Make sure at this point that you aren't standing in front of one of the city's enormous drainpipes. I think the picture above speaks for its self.

Thirdly, see the man walking on the river? He is employed by the city to pick up rubbish from the ice on the canals. You may be able to see, a way in front of him, a ladder out across the ice. That is where his workmates are, watching out for his safety. Is that a joke?

THE ANGLO-RUSSIAN MARRIAGE

2009-02-26T01:28:00.000-08:00

ENDEARING IMAGE!

The lady in the chair was actually waiting to attend a different wedding but I thought she was wonderful.

THE WEDDING

It was quite an enviable opportunity to attend a wedding in one of the wedding palaces here. I have watched enough brides come out of them!

The wedding itself was very lovely. Very similar to any civil wedding in the UK, except conducted in Russian. I hope David knows what he is getting into! He seems happy anyway and he signed the contract regardless. The inside of the building was quite lovely and the room of the marriage was elegant. During the service we endured some really sentimental recorded music and the service was only interrupted by the gentleman in front of me who had a very old camera which made a really noisy wind back noise after each photo! Everyone noticed (probably not the bride and groom!).

After the service we were taken to the reception by bus, saving us a long and icy walk.

The photo shows the brides parents holding a bread with a dish of salt, over the top of a beautiful embroidered cloth which is probably an heirloom. The idea is that the bride and groom take as bigger bite as possible to decide who is the boss in the household. I think it's traditional for the bride to take a modest bite, although I don't suppose they do that these days. They then take a piece of bread and dip it in the salt and feed it to each other. Really, that was all that was different from a traditional wedding reception in the UK, then everyone got really drunk and danced etc. ditto!

WINTER WONDERS

2009-02-26T01:00:00.001-08:00

This was a glorious clear, cold evening and the photo opportunities made me late for meeting up with Mike. Who could resist this though?

MUSHROOM PARTY

We enjoyed last Saturday night at the home of a work colleague of Mike's. Last autumn Mike had the opportunity to go mushroom hunting with a gang from the office, this particular chap being the expert only collected porchini, and a big basket of those he had found. He invited us on Saturday to enjoy risotto a la porchini. He had boiled the mushrooms and had then frozen them. Gosh! I didn't know that was even a possibility as I have only ever enjoyed porchini either fresh or dried. We enjoyed a couple of bottles of excellent Georgian wine which was a great treat as, naturally, Georgian wine is not allowed into Russia. This was very generous as the said gentleman had only a couple of bottles brought in from Ukraine. Of course he hadn't realised that he was not allowed to bring it through.

He had a wonderful flat, the first flat I have been into belonging to a local, albeit a rather privileged local. He did warn us, however, that he had been having trouble with rats since the Restaurant had opened beneath him. I kept my feet pretty much off the ground for the entire visit.

This guy also had the most impressive private library, probably, in the City. During the early 90's there had been a charity to gather up as much reading material, mostly from USA as was possible and send it to the literature starved Russians. Somehow, he had acquired a huge number of these books, some of real historical interest. He also had some magazines dated from the 60's which were, according to him, published and printed in Russia and sold, legally, through the news kiosks. They were in Russian but were all about the wonders of living in the USA. I think he is quite wrong about this. I think these were definitely printed in the USA and smuggled into Russia to be sold quite secretly. After all, they were would really make any Russian very envious of the lifestyle outside of the Soviet Union and why would they allow that? I was in Russia in the 70's and I know people had hardly any information about anything outside.

We enjoyed looking at some childhood artwork which included a 'City of the Future' containing glorious Soviet slogans! Really that brainwashing business started very early.

A FEW WINTER CITY IMAGES

2009-02-13T02:17:00.001-08:00

I particularly love the ducks who have found a nice patch of water in which to swim!

The birch wood is on one of the city islands but looks a million miles away!

The sunrise was taken from my sitting room window at about 8.45 a.m.!

The ice on the canal in front of the Church of the Spilt Blood is clean of bottles and garbage, which is unusual!

IS HE REALLY GOING TO SIT ON THAT ?

2009-02-13T02:14:00.001-08:00

I SAW A GHOST TODAY!

2009-02-13T01:43:00.000-08:00

WHO IS PETER THE GREAT TALKING TO? MORE TO THE POINT, WHO IS THAT LURKING IN THE BACKGROUND?

IT'S BEEN A WHILE BUT I AM BACK!!!

2009-02-13T01:10:00.000-08:00

TWO OLD LADIES

I was moved and uplifted earlier this week to come across two wonderful old ladies. Not content to sit around in their homes during the dark, cold winter days, they were out busking! These ladies clearly had a combined age of about 160+. They were both wearing red hats and warm wool coats. Perhaps they are sisters, their harmony was great as they sang traditional Russian folk songs and one of them was wearing a yellow plastic container around her neck to collect the money. I don't usually give money to buskers but I was extremely generous to these ladies as I thought they showed such spirit! They probably sing all the time at home and realised the possibility to 'cash in' on their pastime! They made my day and I made theirs!

I wonder how long it will be before such enterprise will be shown by our own British pensioners, struggling along on their 0% interest on their savings. Not even funny.

NEW TROLLEY BUSES

Things have changed even in the short time I have been living here. All the battered old mini buses that used to clog up our main roads have been banned from use and have been replaced by beautiful new buses. This is making the main shopping street of Nevsky Prospect much, much cleaner and safer. Good things DO happen here!

ON THE OTHER HAND

I thought I was being sensible crossing at a pelican light this morning but hadn't accounted for the fact that big, dark windowed, 4 x 4's park on the crossings and don't think anything of backing into pedestrians crossing! I nearly got caught, but I will be looking out in future. I really think people in cars assume that the pedestrian is some sort of inferior being, seriously!

SNOW

At last I can report that the weather here is now worse than the weather in the UK. Thank goodness, I thought I might start to be considered a fraud as every time I speak to my son in Newcastle the weather has been considerably colder and snowier than here!

I can confirm that the river and canals here are well iced over and I have seen people walking on the ice on the main river, crazy! I think the swimmers are still swimming at Peter and Paul. It takes all sorts.

DARKNESS AND LIGHTS

2008-12-16T01:46:00.001-08:00

SHORT DAYS AND LONG NIGHTS

The daylight hours are now between 10.00 am to around 3.30, but what I hadn't realised is how dull it would be between the daylight hours, making it very difficult to get enough light inside. I think we need to pick up some stronger light bulbs! It's quite hard not to turn over and go back to sleep in the mornings and very easy to hang around in one's pyjamas until at least 10.30! However, it does make lots of lovely hours to indulge in all my indoor hobbies (don't ask!) and a lot of time to socialise amongst all the great people I have met here.

PETER' VISIT

How good it was to have our son here last week. I really enjoyed hitting the bricks with him and showing him around town, even plucked up the courage to go on the metro! Of course, this wasn't too difficult because he would certainly not get lost even if I did. I am finding myself a lot more confident using the public transport around town these days.

We walked around the summer gardens to find all the statues boxed up for the winter and around Mars Field to find tramps laying on the ground around the Eternal Flame for the Lost Soldiers, just to keep warm. I can't see how anyone can object to this as they surely need the warmth but we did see the police moving them on.

The market people are really struggling to sell things and it is possible to knock down the price considerably. However, I feel so mean doing this as I know they find it really hard to make any money. I never realised before how bad it feels to get a real bargain. I try to be really fair so they feel happy and I feel happy (I am a silly sucker really, I am sure they feel happier than me with the final deal!)

Whilst buying Peter a hat for his ski trip it was important to keep in mind that his trip was going to be in Western Europe as the choice of fur was ranging from fox to raccoon and in between some pretty outrageous choices! Having tried several Davy Crockett styles with tails etc. he finally settled for a black rabbit which could be taken for faux!

THE SCOTTISH BALL!

The night after Peter left we went to a Scottish ball. It's amazing, everywhere I have ever lived there is always a Scottish ball and a large number of locals seem to have kilts ready for the occasion. It was really fun to dance with lots of Russians in kilts who really knew how to 'Strip the Willow'. Rather a lot of fine whiskey was consumed that night (not by me, I hasten to add!)

THE INCIDENT IN THE 24 HOUR SHOP

Well, this isn't a huge incident to mention but a typical example of what one has to deal with regularly here.

I was having a luncheon party and needed to nip out very early in the morning, whilst still dark, to buy bread and a couple of other things. It was cold so I put on my big coat and hat and looked pretty unrecognisable as a foreigner.

When I came to pay I handed a note to the girl on the till and she looked away from me and rudely slapped the plastic counter in front of her to indicate that is where I was to put the note and not hand it to her. Being annoyed, I persisted in trying to hand it to her whilst muttering expletives under my breathe. She tapped the counter again! I was in half a mind to tell her to stuff the goods 'where the sun don't shine' but I needed those items and had to swallow my pride and put the money on the counter. She made me feel like some sort of 'down and out' and I struggled not to allow that incident to really get to me. Then I realised that she will probably always be miserable and work in that nasty little shop and I felt a whole lot better!

007 JAMES BOND PARTY

What a fun night we had at the British Consulate. Although I did feel slightly idiotic to start with. I had decided to dress as a spy, wearing one of Mike's suit jackets and bow ties with a huge spy glass in my pocket. Walking into the room to find all the other women who were nearly all Russian at that point, dressed absolutely beautifully as 'bond girls' was a bit mortifying to say the least. However, a couple of glasses of red put that problem to rest and the remainder of the evening was enjoyed immensely, not least sitting on the Harley Davidson and enjoying the dancing with men and also some women who seemed to find my outfit attractive! What an experience!

LEAVING FOR CHRISTMAS

Well, it doesn't seem long since my last trip out of Russia but I am really looking forward to Christmas and New Year and I will be returning to the blog in February! Bye for now!

DINNER AT CATHERINE PALACE!

2008-12-16T00:40:00.000-08:00

WHAT A NIGHT

We were delighted to be invited to a private dinner at the Catherine Palace during Peter's visit and were able to take him too! This was a most magical evening. Unfortunately, it decided to snow extremely heavily as we made our way out of town that evening. However, Mike had decided to drive himself and borrowed the company Land rover and we arrived intact, about half an hour early.

I wasn't terribly happy, having carefully dressed in my 'glad rags' for this grand occasion, to have to don walking socks and boots and a heavy coat topped with a rather ugly hat and big gloves, however, the walk from the gates and up the drive to the castle was about 10 minutes in the deep snow and it was absolutely freezing. We were sure that it would have been possible to drive up to the entrance and drop off, leaving only the unfortunate driver to walk the walk but we didn't really know how to ask the security about this and all in all it seemed easier to walk.
On the first attempt to enter the grand gates, we were rebuffed and told we had to wait half an hour, so... back to the car, already covered in snow. This was when Mike took leave of his feet on black ice which was completely hidden under snow. It was so sudden, he landed flat on his back leaving Peter and I in utter shock as we looked at him prostrate in the snow, when we realised he wasn't hurt it was very hard not to laugh, so we did.

Our second attempt to enter the gates was successful and we were welcomed through with a full trumpet fanfare! The walk up to the palace was pure magic, with huge snowflakes falling and burning torches lining the walkway. In the distance, the palace was glowing with warm light and promises of a wonderful evening ahead!

THE AMBER ROOM

The beauty of this famous room is evident from the picture above. It was wonderful to see it without the usual crowds of tourists.

PLEASE NOTE!
I accidentally uploaded an image of Ambleside Church in the English Lake District, looks as cold as Russia doesn't it?!

MORE BLOG FODDER

2008-10-29T08:16:00.000-07:00

WINTER IS COMING!

Not a leaf on the trees. Grey, sunless skies. Lots of rain but it still isn't cold! I believe there has been snow in England already but not here in Russia! The sight of the icebreakers having returned to the Neva River assures me that it won't be long before we experience some serious winter weather.

NO TOURISTS!

A great time to visit as the bulk of tourists have disappeared leaving the streets of the City for the hardy. It's going to be far more fun visiting the museums during this season. Apparently, even the airport is bearable now.

RAIN AND BRIDES

I can't help feeling a little sorry for the brides of the season, actually, I feel sorry for them most of the time as the prospects of a long and happy marriage are pretty unlikely here. Most modern women seem to bring up their children alone. In fact, the brides don't usually look all that happy at their weddings and quite often they seem to be having their photographs taken alone whilst the groom is happily drinking with his buddies in the background. Very strange. This is not always the case, but I have to say that mostly, it is.

ON THE SUBJECT OF BOOZE

I heard an amazing comment on Russia Today. A Siberian supermarket chain manager was saying that although the bad economic situation is hitting sales of food, it is not really affecting the sales of alcohol at all. In fact he expects, from previous experience, for sales to actually increase as people have more financial difficulties! Unbelievable! Perhaps it's the same in other countries but it's hard to think of that as a good thing!

MICKY D's

To see that there were crowds of people queueing up for their burgers in MacDonald's on Saturday was quite surprising. You would have thought it was the first day of opening. It still seems to be somewhat of a thrill to people here. They all seem to have the right money in their hands whilst in the queue so have planned exactly what to order and how much it will be, sweet!

THE METRO

Mike has given up trying to get home during 'rush hour'. The metro is horrible! The pushing was so intense that he lost the back from his mobile phone in the squeeze the other day. Deloittes have flexi hours so most people come in after 9.30 in the morning and leave around 7.00pm. It's quite inconvenient for Mike as often his support staff aren't there when he needs them!

UMBRELLAS

People take no care to control their umbrellas here and you really have to watch out for your eyes when walking down a busy street in the rain. No kidding, it really is bad!

ROADWORKS

Not sure why but the workmen seem to go around the city digging up holes and filling them up again. If it happens to be on your street, you are probably going to lose your water for the day. Looking down these holes, it would appear that they could use a few jobs doing down there at the same time, so not really sure what happens there, however, it seems to keep an awful lot of men busy seven days a week.

THE MAN ON THE STAIRS

A couple of floors below us lives a man who likes to smoke on the landing. He has a chair set up and makes himself comfortable whilst filling up the building with the stench of fags. He doesn't use an ashtray but that is besides the point.

When Mike came back from the supermarket the other night with a tonne of water, I couldn't fit in the lift with him and the water and volunteered to walk up the stairs instead. As I approached the steps to the aforementioned landing, I could see 'the man' and to my utmost embarrassment, and to his mortification, he was dressed solely in his underpants! It was too late to turn around and it would almost have been more embarrassing to turn and flee so I continued up. The poor guy slightly turned away and I said 'good evening' behaving like I always walk past men on the corridor in their underwear. It was actually cringe worthy! The landing is not wide so I was really close to him!

A FEW POINTS OF NOTE

Never throw food away thoughtlessly as someone in the area will find it and eat it. I always try to put it where it is obvious and nicely packed. Problem is, if something is a 'bit off'' I worry that a poor soul will get sick.

The light bulb that Mike put in the lift a few weeks ago is still going strong!

I have really enjoyed all my adventures in Russia over the last few weeks and there are so many visual delights it's sometimes quite an overload. I am getting to find my way around town quite well now and building up confidence. Having said this, I am really looking forward to my trip to Spain now for my November break!

Back in December when we have the pleasure of a visit from Peter!

A DIFFERENT KIND OF BARGAIN

2008-10-17T07:19:00.000-07:00

MY FABULOUS CHILDREN

I was unable to take pictures today of the topic of this blog so I thought I would post some pictures of my fabulous family (just in case they feel left out that I never mention them!) This blog is strictly about life in Russia, so sorry to all of you but you know I love you! Sorry David, it looks like a very old photo but we know it was this September. Sorry Ali, I don't have a more recent photo of you on this computer. Sorry Peter but who is that attached to the side of your head?

BACK TO THE SUBJECT

I had an opportunity today to go with Robyn, who lives in the same block as me, to a sale of religious paraphernalia (I hope that doesn't sound too irreverent?) Unfortunately, it would have been difficult to walk around inconspicuously taking photos.

This is a sale that takes place every year and the end of the tourist season (coincidence?) where all the churches take all their stuff that they normally sell at their church and pitch it all in for a cheaper price.

This was really interesting because the Russian Orthodox Church is very colourful and it uses a lot of symbolism, icons and images. I simply could not believe what was on sale. The hall was huge and absolutely packed with ordinary Russian people buying these things as though it was the first day of the Harrods sale.

It was possible to buy the full dress, robes and headdress for a priest! My friend informs me that the more wealthy may buy these for their priest. I couldn't imagine what other use they would have.

There were even a few onion domes for sale!

There were priests with queues of people lining up to buy a cheap, plastic replica of their favourite icon and the priest would bless them, kiss the plastic icon and hold it up to the real icon, kiss it and then take the money.

There was one stand where it was possible to pay a priest to say a prayer for you. I can't understand why that would work better. Surely the priest should do that for free?

Several things struck me today. The ordinary people there, mainly woman, really did represent the average Russian, not rich, not poor or homeless but the type of which there are several million. They are so very simple, making do with the very cheapest, simplest clothing, some poor souls in slippers, all of them wearing headscarves because they are so in awe of anything to do with the Church. How hard things really have been for the ordinary, peaceful people of Russia. Putin's Russia has had no impact on their lack of wealth whatsoever. Although there are so many things available in the shops now, I doubt that these women even look at those things and carry on managing how they always did. It's no wonder they turn to God, they really need all the help they can get.

Another thing that struck me is, just where was all this religion during the communist time? How on earth did they manage to hide their really deeply held beliefs for so many years?

As always in a crowd of people here, I can't help noticing how many people live their lives with some sort of disfiguring which could be so easy to fix in our modern world. There is no social justice in this country.

VYBORG

2008-10-17T01:39:00.000-07:00

A FINNISH, RUSSIAN TOWN

Another early Saturday morning rising but it was a good day out and an alternative to spending the day look at the rain from the apartment window.

This was a two hour train ride from Finlandskaya Railway Station where they have a brilliant Lenin statue to the boarder of Finland where Vyborg sits. It was Finland until relatively recently.

We went to a beautiful natural park which was on a huge lake and really enjoyed the walk in the rain. This was a little bit like walking around Tarn Howes in the Lake District but without the surrounding mountains. Peaceful and beautiful and I felt it to be a real gift which was definitely the highlight for me.

Mike took some pictures of the port which some client is looking to invest in. It certainly looked as though it could use some investment.

The picture, in which you can see the port in the background, was taken from the top of the round tower of a tenth century castle. I couldn't photograph the castle because it was under renovation. Renovations everywhere!

FACTORY VISITS!

2008-10-17T01:21:00.000-07:00

THE PORCELAIN FACTORY

It was wonderful for me to see the girls at work. Some of these plates and vases take weeks or months to complete. I think someone was working on a special commission for Mr. Putin although we didn't get to see the actual work in progress, note the photo on the desk! Unless he presented her with the photo as a thank you for services rendered. Would you have a picture of your President on your desk otherwise? They do a lot of special commissions for those who can afford it.

I was interested to see that they take a lot of the images directly from art books.

THE DOLL WORKSHOP

This was also an interesting visit and although they make a lot of the touristy dolls you can see everywhere they also make a lot of one off dolls which are real works of art. I was delighted to see the affectionate humour with which they portray the Russian going about his daily life.

FRIEND OF THE HERMITAGE

2008-10-17T00:49:00.000-07:00

A GOOD BIRTHDAY GIFT!

As it was Mike's birthday a couple of weeks ago and I was struggling to think of anything to surprise him with so I thought membership of the Hermitage Friends Club would be a great idea, especially as I have all the time in the world to go there myself and the membership is for two people!

He was actually very pleased with the idea and the Sunday after his birthday we set off for the Hermitage armed with our Membership Card which entitles us to free entrance from a special side door so we don't have to queue with the crowds. All very nice, but that particular Sunday was free! No queues, no cost! Typical!

This membership also gives us twenty percent off any purchases and they have a beautiful book shop and gift shop. So friends, don't visit Hermitage without me, you get free entrance AND twenty percent off NOR do you have to queue with the hoards of tourists.

BURSTING FOR THE LOO

The following morning I was out for an exercise walk with a couple of women and two of us decided we needed a loo. We were passing the Hermitage at the time and in the courtyard they have one of those nasty portable loo affairs on stilts. They were charging 15 rubles for the privilege, so I flashed my Hermitage friends card and the attendant called over to the main office to see if we had to pay! She then came out of her cubby hole and opened the door for me to enter for free! This was hilarious, the phone call and the time was more costly than letting me in in the first place for free.

MORE CULTURAL MATTERS

It is going to take a lot of commitment to see all that the Hermitage has to offer and needs to be 'knocked off' in an organised manner.

On that particular 'free' Sunday we visited the Royal Apartments. We were quite surprised at how dusty all the decor was. We were looking more at the rooms that day but a couple of days later I went back to the Royal Apartments to look at the works of art and that is a different matter. Wonderful!

I was amused to find a painting by John Hoppner of George John 2nd Earl Spencer. Great, great grandfather of Lady Diana? I wonder if Charles Spencer knows it's there?

A VERY CULTURAL WEEK ALTOGETHER!

We went to see a new blockbuster of a movie just out here in Russia. It's called Admiral and it's all about Admiral Kolchak, he was in charge of the Whites fighting the Reds in the Bolshevik Revolution. It was a fantastic movie and it is a pity that it probably won't get shown outside of Russia. I didn't understand the dialogue very much at all but I still enjoyed it and pretty much knew where the plot was having read up on Kolchak beforehand. There is a very good trailer on U-Tube.

This made me realise that it is possible to enjoy a foreign movie provided the visual side is interesting enough and your imagination is good enough!

However, this was followed up by a trip to see the musical CHICAGO! I was looking forward to it based on my experience of ADMIRAL. It was awful. The price of the tickets were West End prices for an amateur dramatics production.

THE EXPAT LIFE IS A HARD ONE!

2008-10-17T00:12:00.000-07:00

THE ALABAMA BABES!

The above ladies are affectionately known around town as the 'Alabama Babes'. They are a rare breed but come in a rather large group. Their husbands are here sorting out the paper industry. They all live in wonderful apartments, far out of our league, and get taken around by chauffeur driven cars everywhere. They don't walk very much due to very high heels and never go anywhere without at least a couple of hours preparation (i.e. makeup!). They are fantastic, warm and generous people and add a lot of value to the expat community.

ANYONE FOR FUR?

The picture was taken earlier this week at the British Consulate where we all been invited to a charity fashion show. It was a very Russian affair. It was all fur. Because they don't have issues with fur here (it's bloody cold in the winter!) they are able to take the product a step further than we have done in the West. These were designs we would have seen if we had continued using furs into this century. It was stunning actually but they were very, very expensive. I was, however, a bit shocked at one beautiful, young model sporting a particularly furry coat with a fox head on each side of her neck and rather a lot of tails hanging at the back!

BURST THE BUBBLE!

I went home on a bus. Enough to bring anyone back to earth. Nobody ever opens the windows and it gets so stuffy. I open a window if I am near enough but I get disapproved of for it. I think they must think the air outside is worse than the air inside but that can't be possible, can it?!

I think the City is due some new buses and I look forward to seeing them. The elderly really struggle to get on and off as the steps are SO steep and the doors open and close really viciously. I also feel they could keep them a lot cleaner inside. uggh!

I have developed a habit of washing my hands an awful lot here. I never sit down for coffee or lunch whilst out and about without a visit to the bathroom first. Although that in itself can be a hazard! Hope I am not giving the wrong impression, there are some really clean places too!

ARTS AND CRAFT GIRLS!

2008-10-16T23:52:00.000-07:00

THE STICK AND GLUE BRIGADE

It really is like playschool but every Monday morning a group of women get together to literally stick and glue. At the moment we are busy making magnificent items to sell at the Christmas Bazaar. It's rather funny because none of us is great at this sort of thing but we are actually coming up with a lot of junk to sell. The photograph is of the girls at my flat a couple of weeks ago making cards. They were quite badly behaved but we got a lot done. It's all about companionship really! What a mess I had to clear after this lot.

DON'T PANIC!

Well, I must admit to nearly having a panic attack when I visited a friend's flat for a crafting session recently. Most people have interesting entrances to their apartments and it's not unusual to have difficulty getting in but this was horrible.

I had been told to buzz the buzzer for the flat having entered the first doorway at the entrance to the second doorway. I didn't bargain for the door behind me to close itself and to find myself stuck between the two doorways in a tiny vestibule, in complete darkness. They are so cheap in this country with light bulbs in hallways. My heart was beating rapidly as I told myself not to panic as I groped around in my bag for my mobile. Having found it I fumbled around with the light given off from the mobile, for the buzzer. It was like a 'house of horrors' situation because I couldn't find the buzzer and kept finding all sorts of horrible bits of old wooden panels etc. Eventually, I managed to call one of the women upstairs and they talked me through it and then someone came down to rescue me. It was really horrible and very claustrophobic! I will take a torch next time I go there.

HIGH SOCIETY!

2008-10-08T08:42:00.000-07:00

WATCH OUT OSTRICHES!

Yes! They sell ostrich eggs at my local supermarket. Just casually plonked between the hens eggs. They cost about 30 pounds each but I guess you don't need more than one. I can't imagine breaking one open. How they are cooked I can't think. I would hate to come across a slightly formed foetus in one... yuck!!!

THE ENGLISH CLUB

I am not sure why they call it this because there are no English members. I think it just sounds rather posh to the 'high society' of St.Petersburg.

We were very lucky to be invited to the club's opening meeting of the season. It took place inside the Smolny Cathedral, which was never consecrated as the architect committed suicide before it's completion and has always been used for other purposes, making it a huge and imposing venue.

We started with drinks and little fairies, beautiful little girls in angel outfits bringing us flowers and curtsying (would never be allowed in Britain!). We then sat down for the most amazing performances of ballet, choir and a woman gymnast extraordinaire who was able to contort her body in more positions than exist! Just use your imagination! All this was for an audience of about 50.

A lot of the guests were the top representatives of the various museums and arts in the City and there were a lot of eminent and famous locals. An aspiring astronaut (he's booked his seat with Richard Branson and is about to start his training!), an Olympic champion figure ice skater who is now a famous trainer of several Olympic champions and the first 'sexologist' of Russia who has written several books on the subject (whatever sexology means, but I know they couldn't talk about it during the Soviet days) and appears on TV regularly, were but a few of the members.

I loved the ladies dress code at this function. They all looked gloriously dressed up in the old fashioned sense and there were a lot wearing mink stoles (yes!).

All in all, a lovely and memorable evening!

VELIKI NOVGOROD

2008-10-08T08:20:00.000-07:00

WHAT A DAY!

The days are shortening fast now and there are not many weekends left before winter comes, so we have to make hay whilst the sun shines and get out to some interesting places whilst we can!

It has to be said that this was a fairly long day out, leaving home at six a.m. and catching the first bus out of the City. We had an interesting time buying the tickets. We were needing a little help to ask a couple of questions at the ticket booth and a nice elderly gentleman asked us if he could help. We were so surprised that this ordinary old man could speak such good English. Must have been in the KGB! Having said that, how judgemental can we get! It is rather a long time since the end of the Soviet Union, there is no reason why he couldn't have learned English since then! He did help us and we did catch the bus!

The main interest of this town is inside a walled part, known as the Kremlin. It is of great significance to the Russians and a UNESCO heritage site of some importance. The bell tower is the oldest in Russia.

I'm glad I have been there but a lot of it was under reconstruction and it took so long to get there and back that I don't think we will return.

TO BATTLESHIPS

2008-10-08T08:01:00.000-07:00

THE AURORA

I was quite surprised at this battleship that fired the first shot of the Revolution. It was really rather nice! Walking over British battleships is always quite a claustrophobic experience whereas the Aurora seems to have much higher rooms (cabins?). This could just be because the Russians are a tall race. I was also impressed with the excellent condition the ship is kept in. It's extremely well painted and looked after, every inch of it. Some navy personnel live on it and presumably take care of it.

Whilst the very boring tour guide walked us over the engine rooms we took the opportunity to escape and explore the state rooms which are presumably the same as they always have been with a wonderful bronze of Lenin presiding over the dining room.

There are wonderful emblems of communism and propaganda around the ship.

INDIAN SUMMER?

2008-10-08T07:46:00.000-07:00

AUTUMN IN PAVLOVSK

As it can be seen from the photo, absolutely beautiful, and I can honestly report that the weather has for the most part been like this for half of September and up to 7th October (today!) I am sure it can't stay like this for much longer.

IN A JAM

The downside of the trip to Pavlovsk was the traffic getting out of the City. It was awful. We stood up on a bus for the best part of two hours and there was no chance of getting off as we were in the middle of a real highway. It was a great relief to arrive at the palace grounds and I was happy to walk in the gardens and not to go into the palace itself. Fresh air was the order of the day.

LATE SEPTEMBER AND BACK IN THE SWING!

2008-09-26T01:32:00.000-07:00

BROWN WATER RUNS DEEP

I think I mentioned before that we have a few water issues here. Well apart from the fact that we can't drink it and that it requires 10 or 15 minutes running in the mornings to receive hot water, we now have BROWN water issues. Well, I mean really brown, we always had a tinge of the Vandyke colour favoured by water colour artists but now it runs the colour of the type of tea favoured by builders, you could stand a spoon up in it!

I am lying actually, to have more impact. The truth is that it isn't all that bad NOW, but when we returned last weekend from our trip it was unusable. I was really reluctant to shower (of course I did but...), it was not possible to do the much overdue laundry and the problem was getting to be a larger issue.

On Monday, setting out on my morning errands, I was perturbed to see a wide, rather worn, canvas/plastic pipe leading down to a mains drain in our courtyard, with an enormous amount of bubbling and boiling pressurised water surging through it's precarious body, causing enough pressurised steam to run a train. This scene was taking place between me and the bins where I was supposed to dump my large bags of household rubbish.

I considered dumping my kitchen waste somewhere in a street bin but then raised the courage to pass to the bins. A vivid picture went through my head of this pipe, under enormous strain, suddenly popping up out of the mains drain and waving around in huge circles furiously blasting out scalding gallons of water over any idiot happening to be in the way and that was me done for. The workmen supposedly in charge of this event seemed to be unworried smoking their heads off and not paying attention but I'm sure this wouldn't be allowed anywhere half civilised.

CATS ON A HOT TIN ROOF

I decided to go along to a neighbour's flat for a coffee with the ladies who were spending the morning 'crafting' to take a look at their works.

My neighbour has the most brilliant view from her kitchen window which includes the Church of the Spilt Blood (that is the church in the picture above). However she also sees most of the rooftops on our side of town. It was astonishing to be able to see people up on the tiles going about their business. Some were working and repairing or seeing to satellite dishes but others seem to be up there purely for the heck of it! I suppose if you don't have a garden or balcony and it is a sunny day, why not? Well, I won't be caught on our roof. I do sometimes hear footsteps above us and we are on the top floor so someone goes up there.

My neighbour has seen someone slip down a roof before but fortunately the fella was saved.

A SMALL VICTORY FOR ME OVER THE DOMESTIC HELP

Upon my return to my flat after an eventful morning I found my cleaner standing by the door in her coat waiting to leave (it was ten minutes before 12 so I wasn't late for her). This is going to be an interesting relationship. I am a bit weedy when it comes to household help and they usually get the better of me but this time I am determined to hold my ground. I think this change of attitude has come about because she is SO bold.

My windows needed cleaning. She has three hours to clean my flat. I can do it in two actually. I asked her very nicely if she would clean the three dirtiest windows and not to worry about the bath as we haven't used it since her last visit (I told you about the colour of the water, it makes taking a bath pretty unappealing!). She gazed steadily at me and said, "No, I will clean two". I gazed steadily back and said (with my weedy heart gathering pace), "No, I want you to clean three'. To which she replied "No, two!" yet again! I realised that this was a 'make or break' moment, so I held my ground firmly and decided that if she was going to be this difficult she could walk. She acquiesced and cleaned three. I had to go out for the morning in case I had created an atmosphere!

So that is why I was surprised to see she had finished before 12 o'clock. I should have asked her to clean four windows! Now that would be too bold!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!

Birthdays are fun at the best of times and this one was no exception. When one is living abroad a birthday can be enough to make you a little homesick for the family you love but expats always find a sort of substitute family amongst themselves and rally to any occasion that demands giving someone a little extra attention and this was the case on my birthday!

Four of us enjoyed a lovely lunch in a Georgian restaurant. Really tasty food it has to be said. The Georgians have this special bread which is a bit like a pizza base covered in delicious dripping cheese. Not normally my thing but this was particularly good. There was a heavy use of fragrant herbs, particularly coriander. My trout was simply fried and filled with a wonderful stuffing of walnuts and garlic and spices. This restaurant is local to us and I am sure we will frequent it.

NEARLY MUGGED AGAIN!

Walking around Nevsky Prospect after lunch, three of us, chatting merrily and dawdling along, looking in shop windows, forgetting to be vigilant, I suddenly became uncomfortable with the three men who seemed to be trying to pass us on both sides but were taking too much time to pass. One moment there were just the three of us girls and the next there seemed to be six people. I could tell from the body language that it wasn't right. I stared straight at one of the guys and he made no eye contact, neither were they making a connection to each other. That was a give away to me. I quickly walked slightly ahead and said to the other two "come on QUICK! I am not happy with this". They realised immediately and responded. The guys knew we were onto them and still made no eye contact, pretending they hadn't noticed anything.

It's not a good idea to idly walk around this town and forget you are a foreigner in Russia or you will lose your purse!

THE OYSTER BAR

Because I had enjoyed lunch I decided that I would walk to the oyster bar that evening where I was meeting Mike for my birthday supper. I thought I could work off some calories before indulging again.

It took me a full hour walking really fast. When I arrived I was completely knackered! I did stop to take the lovely photo above though.

I am not going to mention every dinner in which I indulge but what was noteworthy at this restaurant was the girls...

HERE COME THE GIRLS!

As we sat enjoying our first glass of wine in walked three incredibly tarted up ladies. I tend to distinguish levels of 'class' by the height of the heels but I am probably totally wrong as I am going by my own culture, Russia is different! These girls were in incredibly high heels and definitely in the money. I don't know what their profession is but they sat down to enjoy a dozen oysters each, flown in from France and costing about £100 for half a dozen! Mike fancied they were prostitutes but they were just as likely to be the WAGS of the local mafia guys.

Several other groups of girls came to the restaurant that night all dressed in a similar fashion. We enjoyed the evening immensely, although I did feel rather drably dressed myself!

ON THE SUBJECT OF GIRLS

There are not enough men to go around in Russia and the girls do all they can to attract a man.

In discussions with my expat girlfriends we have commented on this problem as we all realise that foreign men are a very attractive proposition, especially middle-aged business men! We have all been in situations where you feel the eyes of a girl on you and your husband and they are thinking 'what is a man of such position doing with a woman as old as that!!!' It is the name of the game here and is quite dangerous for some unsuspecting couples.

It is important for every expat couple to have discussions about this and to make sure the husbands recognise the danger and not mistake it for an attractive option!

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

One of the less delightful aspects of living in a Russian apartment block is the all pervading stench of cabbage which one's neighbours seem to have constantly on the boil. At least I like to think it's cabbage. Mike thinks someone died in one of the apartments about a year ago and hasn't been discovered yet. I will keep you posted on that one.

On the subject of unpleasant things, I opened a tin of sardines for my lunch the other day. They are not like sardines I have tasted before and are extremely unpleasant. However, having opened them, I didn't really know what to do with them. I realise now, too late, that I should have chucked them down the loo however, at the time I thought the only way to get rid of them was to eat them. I soaked them in vinegar to try to disguise their flavour and put a tonne of salt and pepper on them. I ate them on top of crispbread without letting them touch the side of my mouth. Lesson, don't buy Russian tinned sardines.

THE BUSINESSMAN

I love the uniform of the 'businessman' in Russia. Italian suit and black tee-shirt, expensive watch, smart haircut, no smile and always a black, dark-windowed four-wheel drive. The amusing thing is they can't drive for toffees. At least, they can't park. I know this because I watch a lot of 'dark-windowed, four wheel drive activity' from my flat window (discretely of course) and they cannot park into a space! I assume this is because they can probably buy their driving license and don't take a driving test. I think you can buy most documents here.

ON THE SUBJECT OF BABIES AND WIND

Nicky continues to receive helpful advise in terms of caring for her baby. For example she should keep her in one country for at least the first three years so she can acclimatise. She should give her vitamin D and the nurse gave her something to stick up the baby's bottom for wind! (is that a cork Nicky?)

24 SEPTEMBER AND LOOK AT THE SKY!

2008-09-24T05:58:00.000-07:00

It is such a gorgeous day today that I simply had to go out for a very long walk therefore haven't had the time I thought I would yet to blog however, I couldn't resist popping this picture on just to show the sky. I am sure I will need my thermal underwear soon but at the present it is really lovely weather!

ALL ABOARD THE LOVE BOAT

2008-09-02T07:23:00.000-07:00

I think the sunset on the outset of this weekend boat trip speaks for itself. I took so many pictures as I have never seen a more beautiful sky. We were sitting in the dining room at the time and this was taken through the window of the boat just as it embarked on its journey. The timing was absolutely perfect to get this composition!

VALAAM

The purpose of the boat trip, other than just a fun weekend away on a boat, was to visit the above mentioned island and it's famous monastery which is the focus of many a pilgrim in the Orthodox church.

LIFE ABOARD THE JOLLY ROGER

I don't actually know what the boat was called and if I did I probably couldn't translate it to English.

We arrived around 7.00 pm to discover we were absolutely the only foreigners on board and absolutely nobody spoke more than two words of our mother tongue, so with our limited amount of Russian it was always going to be a challenge.

However, we ascertained that we were booked onto the first sitting for our evening meal. We were allocated half an hour to complete our meal before we would be kicked out for the staff to prepare for the next sitting! Whilst waiting alongside a gaggle of very hungry Russians outside the restaurant for the doors to open and the gobble fest to begin on time, we contented ourselves by deciphering the menu. It told us the weight of the portions at the end of each item, for example, bread 100 grams, chicken, 120 grams, rice 50 grams etc.! A far cry from our trip around South East Asia on Sun Viking!

When the dining doors opened everyone fell in and ran to their tables. We were luckily in front of the window, hence the great photograph, and were able to watch from the dining table as the boat set sail. Two ladies were put on the table with us and we felt like alcoholics as they drank tea and we ordered a glass of wine each (we would have had a bottle but didn't have time at the table to drink it!) The women were very sweet but of course it is a bit awkward when one can't communicate and even more so when one tries! However, we did manage and even had a couple of laughs which was just as well as they sat with us for every meal during the weekend. I suppose we were lucky to have our own berth without being paired up.

MORE ABOUT THE FOOD

Let's just say it reminded me of when I was a child in post-war Britain, simple and cheap and cleverly improvised. I was delighted that every desert was enhanced with artificial cream which brought back memories of visits to the bakery with my Auntie Jessie who would always buy me a cake with this type of cream and I loved it and apparently I still do!

I must point out that this was not a 'cheap' weekend, at least not for us foreigners, as typically for Russia the boat company has a two tier price system, one price for them, another, considerably more expensive for foreigners. I may be wrong here but I don't think I have come across this system anywhere else in the world.

MANCHESTER UNITED V ST. PETERSBURG

Our cabin was just down the corridor from the television room where about 100 people were screaming with delight as St. Petersburg beat Manchester United. We didn't sleep well, the match was a late starter and we are two hours ahead Monaco (that's where they were playing).

VALAAM

We awoke to decent weather, which was extremely lucky as it had been raining all week. After a really strange porridge laced with butter and a couple of apple pancakes we set out on our first tour of the morning which was to be a walking tour. One thing I will say about this walking tour, other than the fact that it was very slow and that the scenery and air were lovely is that the guide could talk the hind legs off a donkey and of course we didn't have a clue what he could possibly be saying about the pine trees and the lakes that took so long. It was pleasant all the same.

After lunch we went on a smaller boat around the island to the monastery. Because we are not Orthodox it's significance was lost on me but one thing I will remember is all the monks. They have long, straggly grey hair, really dirty looking clothes and look just Rasputin did. I always associate religious followers with bodily cleanliness, seems I'm wrong. I get the whole simple poverty thing but..

All in all a good weekend. Although we couldn't talk with the people on the boat very much they were very warm and friendly, that is until it was time to disembark at the end of the weekend. It was back to pushing and barging as in the bread queues of the communist days, just to get off the boat and to the metro station! FUN FUN FUN!!!

BACK FROM SPAIN AND TIME FOR ANOTHER HIV TEST!

2008-09-02T03:58:00.000-07:00

RETURN TO HOME!

Mike very boldly borrowed the company Land Rover Discovery (black with dark windows!) to collect me from the airport on my return from Spain. I was very impressed and would use this service again!

DON'T BUY FROZEN FOOD UNLESS YOU KNOW YOUR WAY HOME!

Glowing with the success of the airport meeting, the following day we ventured off to the supermarket and IKEA. IKEA is difficult enough at the best of times but to manage it in Russian is horrible! However, the big discovery that day for me was MARKS AND SPENCERS! Maybe this is a soft posting after all?

So far we remained empty handed so a trip to a hypermarket was essential. Having moved into the new flat with an empty freezer we purchased a lot of fodder to fill it. It was quite surprising to find that this huge establishment didn't accept any cards, credit nor debit. We had done a huge shop so were wiped out of cash.

The journey home was going quite well, until we couldn't turn left at the normal turn. We had to turn left at some point and drove on and on and .... I started to think we would be eating all our frozen food that evening, when fortunately we turned left.

DON'T BRIBE THE POLICE!

One of Mike's partners has told him never to try to bribe a policeman (as if Mike would!). However, that same partner said do carry 5,000 rubles around with you just in case you get stopped by the police whilst driving. Apparently, 5,000 (around £100) is about the most you will get charged and you may or may not get a receipt. Charged for what? You can get stopped for nothing and that happens all the time and you may not know why but you have to pay up to £100 but don't try and bribe them? I'm confused

MOVE TO ITALYANSKAYA 37/18 APARTMENT 5

Please note the new address but please don't send anything by post to that address. I may conduct a small experiment to see if things actually arrive by post but let me be the first to try!

As you can see from the above picture I have a really lovely apartment in a great position. I spend many a happy cup of tea in that front window watching the streets below. I can actually fit very nicely with my feet up into that window ledge and it's a great place to read and catch the sun (when it takes it's hat off that is). It's going to be fully furnished with cushions to sit and lean on.

THE WATER

Mike is the first up every week day morning and has the privilege of the first shower and the honour of drawing up the hot water. All the apartments are provided heating and hot water centrally. It is not the custom of the Russian people to rise early in the morning so he is probably the first to shower in the block. It is probable we are the only ones to shower as a part of our daily routine! It takes absolutely ages for the water to come through, sometimes about 10 minutes. Mike thinks he is drawing it from the other side of the river!

THE LIFT

Although the apartment is fab, I can't say the same for the courtyard and the hallways but I console myself with the fact that for St.Petersburg it's pretty good and we have a lift which is a real perk. This is not the most modern of lifts and a few weeks ago I could not imagine that I would be entering solo without fear, however, now I don't even think twice. Apparently, the average amount of time to be stuck in a lift in St.Petersburg is 30 minutes so .... I always make sure I visit the bathroom before leaving home and hope for the best.

STORAGE SOLUTIONS

We have a restaurant in our block. They have decided to store some old and huge pieces of ventilator shaft right outside our entrance way! There are three pieces, each the size of a small car, stacked on top of each other to the left of our doorway. It's unbelievable that nobody seems to care! I have mentioned it to our landlady and she said she will complain about it but doesn't think she will get anywhere. I am planning to talk to the manager of the restaurant about it but haven't plucked up the courage yet! Ridiculous! The cats seem to have made a home in them so at least they are happy!

CATS

There are cats everywhere. Some really beautiful creatures. People seem to look after all the cats in the town very well and I haven't seen any hungry ones.

THE BINS

These are pretty grotty and there is no way to recycle which feels awful except that there is a woman (I think she is a woman), who looks like one of the very poor people of the dark ages who seems to spend some time at the bins sorting the stuff out so hopefully she gets something out of them that she can recycle in some way. She must be residing somewhere in our block or she wouldn't get to the bins which just shows how mixed the area is.

ANATOLE

I heard our bell ring the other day. I took a look through the spyhole and saw an old man standing there who I didn't know, so following the rules of survival in Russia, I didn't answer the door. So I heard another, then another ring, then four rings. I decided to take my life into my hands and answer.

This very kind faced elderly gentleman tried to tell me something which I didn't understand. He then started to pull me outside! I was so confused but realised I could knock him over if I wanted to so I allowed myself to be pulled. It turned out that he was trying to show me the fact that my keys were in the outside of the door! We had accidentally left them hanging there and seeing as though everybody says you should lock your door when you are inside your apartment this was quite a vulnerable situation and this gentleman was worried for me! He introduced himself as Anatole and he lives opposite with his family (in about 30 square metres).
Anatole is out and about every day. I see him chatting to various vendors on Italyanskaya and more worryingly waving his stick at the traffic and crossing the roads regardless of whether they stop for him or not. He is a really nice old man and I wish I could hear about his history. I bet he was here during the siege of Leningrad.

THE NEW CLEANER

Tanya has come to me by way of our landlady. This woman is a human dynamo. She moves so fast and has an unsettling amount of energy. She makes me feel completely inadequate in terms of my ability to clean. This is a happy state of affairs and a good arrangement.

HARRODS FOOD HALL OF ST.PETE'S

I am delighted to discover that I am living a pleasant 7 minute walk from the best little supermarket in the city. It has just about everything I could need and more. It's going to be possible to eat well after all. I will be very strong if I continue to shop in the markets having discovered this shop.

CUSTOMER SERVICE - NOT!

Yesterday, having arrived at the checkout of my new wonder market, the checkout girl pointed out that I hadn't weighed my mushrooms. Two points here, firstly, instead of calling one of the many assistants standing around doing nothing she expected me to go myself but before I went she insisted that I handed over from the trolley all the remaining items to go through the checkout. Second point, when I returned she was sitting smiling and my stuff was sitting waiting for me to pack into bags! I calmly packed my bags whilst she sat impatiently waiting for me to pay. I hoped that she might have realised it would have been a good idea to help me but I doubt she gave it a second thought. Oh well, I suppose you can't expect customer service as well as a wonder market.

MY PURSE, YOUR PURSE

One very strange custom amongst the shop assistants here is that if you don't hand over the correct money and they ask you if you have a particular amount e.g. a 100 note and you say you're not sure and you are looking, they think nothing of delving their own hands into your purse and looking themselves! I don't really mind and I am sure they are only trying to be helpful but it seems a little forward and makes it difficult to lie if you are trying to keep a 100 note for some other purpose (then you have to sort of hide the contents whilst looking through without her getting her hands in there!). Also the next person in the queue gets to see the extravagant amount of money in a foreigner's purse!

FAREWELL UNTIL SEPTEMBER!

2008-07-19T23:45:00.001-07:00

Just a little blog today. I leave for Spain tomorrow and return at the end of August. It`s going to be fun to see the family in Spain and enjoy the sunshine, sea and sangria but I leave St.Petersburg with a tinge of regret as I feel I am just getting to grips with the City and fear I will have to start all over on my return. Ah well, the hardships of life!

PETERHOF

As it was the last day available for a trip, we decided to go to Peterhof yesterday. It was a perfect sunny and calm day for a hydrofoil trip down the Neva.

After 40 minutes we arrived at Peterhof only to find a very long queue for tickets to the park. These are the tickets you have to purchase before being able to get near the palace only to queue again for tickets for the palace. In fact at Peterhof you have to queue for separate tickets for everything and to make it more annoying it is actually quite expensive.

I would not feel quite so annoyed about the price if everyone paid the same, however, in Russia, there is a different, usually about three times higher price for foreigners. Why should foreigners pay more?

Putting these feelings behind us (we had plenty of time to do that whilst waiting in these interminable queues) we enjoyed the palace and gardens but decided that although Peterhof is by far the most famous of the outlying palaces it is not the greatest to visit. We enjoyed Tvarski Selo much more.

A WONDERFUL TOILET VISIT

I had a wonderful loo experience. After paying fifty pence I took my place in the queue only to be yelled at by the toilet cleaner who was annoyed at anyone who went near her bucket. It was difficult not to annoy her because her bucket was placed in the entrance to the cubicles and she was trying to insist that we lined up on one side of her bucket. These women in the queue actually allowed this bloody woman to boss them around! I was having none of it and after my turn in the loo I made sure I gave her bucket a kick to the side as I passed. She was hurling abuse at me as I left with a smile! I am learning to deal with these people!

All in all I think it would be better to choose a day that was not a Saturday at the height of the tourist season to visit Peterhof!

FAREWELL FOR THE SUMMER!

POLICEMEN AND BRIBES, WHOOPS I MEAN BRIDES

2008-07-17T06:34:00.000-07:00

I thought the shot of the Hermitage was rather jolly. The other is a shot of the street where we live at present but not for much longer.

THE POLICEMAN`S LOT IS NOT A HAPPY ONE

It is quite difficult to know who is a policeman and who is not. I am convinced there are people who walk around this town dressed up as such just because once upon a time they had a uniform. Those are the most scary. You would think I could tell by the age of the uniform but unfortunately this is not so. Some police officers just look plain scruffy and not very professional. There are traffic police and another type or two all with different roles. There are a lot of them who seem to have little to do but stroll around the parks and public spaces. Their presence should be a comfort but I find it rather unsettling. I feel they would not do very much if they saw you being attacked but that they may apprehend you for doing absolutely nothing but minding your own business.

I have been told not to go anywhere without identification but not the original because it might get stolen and never hand over original documents to the police themselves! What!?

I was sitting in the summer gardens yesterday, minding my own business and reading a book. It was a beautiful day and I do not have a balcony at the flat. I am a middle aged woman dressed in a conventional manner with a Laura Ashley bag and sensible shoes, reading Nicholas and Alexandra on a park bench in the sunshine when along comes a policeman who stands right in front of me (am I allowed to read the above-mentioned book in Russia?), weighs me and the situation up and then walks away. I have to say my heart was in my mouth, I really thought he was going to ask me what I was doing there! He had a cosh in his hand and handcuffs and a gun in his back pocket. I hardly dared to look up until he walked off! Is this just a park keeper?

When I had lunch with the ladies the other day in Gatchina, we set up our picnic in the park on the steps of an old folly of sorts. A policeman came up to us and stood looking at our picnic before telling the Russian lady amongst us to leave as soon as we finished! Had our Russian lady not been there I think we would have offered him a chicken leg and a glass of champagne but we felt she would think it inappropriate.

ANTI-INTERROGATION CARD

This is the coolest thing I have ever had in my life and I intend to frame it when I leave Russia. If you have any trouble with officials or police or anybody, you pull out the card and call the 24 hour service and they send a minder (well, someone) out to you to deal with the problem! Quite an enterprising business idea!

Part of me really wants something to happen so I can use this facility and part of me thinks it might not work!

BRIDES EVERYWHERE!

It must be because it`s summer. This has to be the most romantic city in the world. Although I have been told that the guys don`t keep up the romance once married.

Having been made man and wife, they cruise the city with all their guests in limousines and with copious amounts of alcohol and have photos taken at every famous monument in the city. There are loads of these so by the time the guests have been dragged around all of them they look pretty much past their best! You see about fifty brides per day at the moment and many empty champagne bottles around the town. It astonishes me that all these smartly dressed people don`t take their empties away with them. They have a way to go in that respect.

GOSTINY DVOR

This is an experience of a shopping centre. It is really huge and houses just about every type of shop imaginable and is all indoors. I remember visiting this when I was here in about 1980. At that time there was absolutely nothing available and all the tinned food had plain labels just with the name of the content, e.g. peas. I can remember being amazed that this huge shopping palace had all the shops selling exactly the same items. All the clothes were the same in all the shops and the tinned food (because that was all there was) was piled up to make it look attractive but it was all the same! It really is wonderful to see Gostiny Dvor today, a symbol of devotion to consumerism.

PALACES AND BEACHES

2008-07-15T07:12:00.000-07:00

One thing I knew coming to this city was that I was going to see a lot of palaces here but one thing I did not expect was the beach.

TSARSKOE SELO AND THE AMBER ROOM

Having started to read the story of Nicholas & Alexandra, I was very interested to visit the above mentioned town and it`s palaces.

We do not have a car so the only way to get to Tsarskoe Selo which is about 35 km out of town was by public transport. First metro then bus. There are several different types of buses here. Some have specific places they stop and others have a route they follow and you flag them down wherever you want and then shout when you want to get off. Good if a) you know where you want to get off and b) if you know what to shout. We knew neither of these things but jumped on one anyway.

People were helpful but it seemed they did not know where we should get off, resulting in our disembarking according to several passengers advice and then, at the driver`s insistence, getting back on! We eventually got to the palaces and park. This was greatly rewarded with a tour of the Catherine Palace and gardens and obviously the most famously, recently newly reconstructed, Amber Room. Now that is another book to read. It was all too much to see in one visit and there is still the Alexander palace to see as that is the one where Nicky and Alexi actually lived!

THE BEACH!

Mike and his ordinance survey map found us on a good old walk on Sunday from our present abode to the beach! A real sand beach, one of a few on the City`s islands. Krestovski Island is clearly a favourite of Mr. Putin`s as he has a home there. We didn`t find it this time but we will! We took a beer sitting in a bar on the beach and watched people play volley ball and racing up and down on jet skis, barbecuing and sunbathing. If I closed my eyes, I could have been in Marbella. There were even showers and loos. Across the water we could see the yacht club and several very nice boats alongside it. Clearly the place for the not so badly off. This will be visited again on a nice sunny day with a picnic and some sunblock! I`m not sure I would swim there although people seem happy to do so.

PRETTY GIRLS

There are only about three months of the year during which time the girls of the City can be seen without their coats on so I like to think that this is why their choice of clothing is so wacky, wild and rather more than a little revealing. If you are going to `bag a man` this is the time of year to do it!

I admire the skill they need to walk around all day in extremely high heels. I have been told that they also wear these heels in the winter. Apparently, the heels work well as sort of crampons that can be dug into the icy sidewalks.

GATCHINA

Yesterday saw me at a quilting exhibition hosted by the town of Gatchina, about an hour away from the City. Not being into quilting, I saw this as an opportunity to take a look at another town. It was a surprise to be blown over by the artistry of the work on display. What was wonderful was that some of the works were clearly made by scraps of material collected from old clothes etc. and not bought pieces from specialist shops.

This exhibition was in three locations. The first location we visited was in a tiny hamlet inside a village hall. They made us very welcome and when I needed to visit a loo I was escorted to another building, down several corridors to an extremely grim toilet with magazines for loo paper, where the escort, equally grim, waited patiently for me to pee before escorting me back! Loo visits are quite often exciting here!

The second location was in a small town, in an enormous neo classic style building, very run down but with incredible chandeliers and a really wonky parquet floor.

The third was the best. This was in a concrete, communist building which housed a lot of leatherette sofas, slashed and torn and a huge, magnificent mosaic of Lenin along with some wonderful symbols of the era. I hope I come across a lot of stuff like this because I think it is becoming more rare.

BLOG FODDER 2

SHOCKING

There are a lot of bare and dangerous electric wires around this city, even in heavily populated tourist parts.

BARKING

There are a lot of stray dogs in the parks. They are all of the large variety. However, they seem to spend most of the time sleeping and don`t seem to bother people at all, not even for food. Perhaps they are being well fed. They are not in bad condition. I will try to learn more about
them.

PULPING

A lot of expats here are involved in the paper pulping industry. One of my new friends who`s husband is so employed gave me a great tip. I don`t think it`s related to her husband`s industry but still.. When she has papers she wants to dispose of that have sensitive information on them, e.g. bank statements etc., she soaks them until they become mush! I never thought of that, it`s brilliant! One could make a sort of paper mache sculpture of it all.

LOST IN TRANSLATION

According to the St.Petersburg Times, our weekly English translated newspaper, a lot of new swimming pools are being constructed in St.Petersburg`s `bedroom communities`. Do they mean `dormitory towns`?!

In a German style restaurant visited at the weekend I was amused to note the reserved tables had a little sign on saying `this land is conquered`. A little strong I thought!

BLOGGER FODDER

2008-07-10T07:44:00.000-07:00

BUYING A BOOK

It sounds like a fairly simple process. You walk in, browse and choose and pay and leave. Not in Russia!

First, I browsed. I found a book about the lives of the last Tsars. Super. I go to the counter with the book. The young lady tells me I can`t buy it there but that she will write a chit with the price and I will take the chit to the far side of the shop, pay, then return to her at the other end of the shop and she will check the receipt and give me the book. I did all of this happily and a little amused. She nearly had a fit when I put my receipt into my purse and not in the bag containing my purchase. `no! no!` it MUST go in there with the book!` I suppose this may be the preferred place for my receipt to prove I had not stolen the book, however, I was the only customer in the shop and the only people who would see me leave without paying would be her and the cashier and they had taken my money from me! They were hardly likely to chase me into the street to check if I had paid! I suppose old habits die hard.

IN THE STREET

There are some very unfortunate people on the streets begging for money. This is not unusual in any big City but they are amongst the more desperate I have seen, and that includes in India.

There is one lovely old lady who looks at least 100 years old. She is clean and she wears traditional peasant type clothes. She has a face full of character and as wrinkled as a very old prune. I imagine she has had a really tough life, WW2, the siege of Leningrad, communism etc. and there she is, day in and day out, hoping for some kindness from the passers by.

It seems dreadful that this generation who have suffered so much and have been thrown into this capitalist society of the modern world, who don`t stand a chance of being able to pay for themselves (any savings they had were completely and totally worthless after the fall of communism, through no fault of their own) are not looked after.

A WALK TO THE OFFICE

Mike suggested I walked with him to his office and he would show me another market and a shopping area. He actually has quite a long walk, more than I had realised across to Vasilyevskiy Island, however he likes it and it is good exercise. It won`t be possible during the long winter months so he is making the most of it now.

A BIGGER CHICKEN BREAST PLEASE

Deciding to use my `market Russian` I thought I had asked for the biggest saddle (the two breasts with the bone intact) of chicken. I realised later that what I actually asked for was a bigger saddle. Just a small difference, bigger - biggest, but enough to make her look at me as if to say, `how big would you expect the breast of a chicken to be?`

THEY MUST BE KIDDING!

The tomatoes looked good. Very large and juicy so I asked for two. They asked me for 200 roubles. That is about two pounds per tomato. I left without them. All the fruit and vegetables are expensive but sometimes I get the feeling I am being taken for an idiot. It is going to be expensive to eat healthily here but you cannot put a price on health. Why did I not get those tomatoes after all?

I have noticed that the fresh food markets are very quiet. The locals cannot afford them. There are a lot of cosseted foreigners with interpreters and drivers and people who are sent by the more wealthy local residents to do the shopping for them but not many people like me! I could use interpreters and drivers but what would I write about?!

CRUISE SHIPS

It is a wonderful walk back from Mike`s office, along the embankment of the Neva. The big cruise ships park down that end of St.Petersburg. They could not come up any further because although the bridges lift at night for an hour or so, the ships are too big and there is nowhere for them to park. I think this is a blessing. It is quite interesting to see them when there are as many as four huge ones in town. I know some of our friends will be arriving in St.Petersburg by ship! It is certainly an interesting way to arrive and you get a 48 hour pass without the need of a visa which saves a lot of hassle.

Walking around the City it is really easy to spot the ones who have come off a ship. So beware, the pickpockets can tell too!

THE PASTRY SHOP

Around the corner from our service flat is the most famous pastry house in St. Petersburg. Fortunately, I am not big on pastry but they look wonderful. You can buy a Salmon Pie I discovered today. Guess what we are having for dinner tomorrow.

A STEP INTO THE OTHER SIDE

2008-07-09T08:23:00.000-07:00

NOTHING TO BUY

I have never been into a supermarket before and left without buying a single item. However, that is exactly what I did yesterday! There was nothing fanciable at all and this was in the new supermarket!

RIDICULOUSLY GORGEOUS RESTAURANT

So it was quite a lovely treat last night to go to just about the best restaurant in the City. After my fruitless search (I didn`t try too hard I must admit) for something fresh to buy, it was perfect that we had such a wonderful meal last night which should keep me going for the rest of the week. The restaurant sits above a casino and a large designer shop and has been serving the rich and famous for more than 200 years (what were we doing there?)

There is a first time for everything and for me I have never been through a metal detector in order to enter a restaurant before. What does that tell you about the rich and famous here? You can only imagine. At least we were able to enjoy our evening without fear of anything metal being undetected. I must admit when I first saw the detector I thought we were supposed to walk through it on the way out in case we had tried to steal the cutlery!

The food was wonderful, although it didn`t resemble anything I thought I had ordered but then it was very posh. I was given a cradle in which to place my (rather ordinary) handbag. Mike remarked that I should be careful that nobody ties it with string and drags it across the floor and away!

After a lovely evening we finally left, avoiding the metal detector on the way out, the stolen cutlery in our pockets remaining undetected! Kidding of course.

THE BLACK WINDOWED LIMOUSINES

Our company last night was a very charming man and his wife who happens to be CEO of a very important business here. After seeing me change my shoes for the walk home he was rather embarrassed to be met by not just a driver but also a bodyguard. When he saw my expression, he reassured me by explaining that he was very unlikely to be threatened physically but it is not unusual for people such as he to be led into a black windowed, nearby limousine for a spontaneous `business meeting`. A very nice way to put it, I thought.

It also occurred to me that perhaps we misunderstand the Russian `businessman`. After all, this CEO may be difficult to make an appointment with and the Russian `businessman` is very proud of his status and particularly his black windowed limousine and perhaps likes to use it as a sort of mobile office. He might possibly think it is quite an honour to be invited for a meeting inside his car!

REALITY CHECK

Yes well, back to normal today. I knew there was a weekly walk arranged every Wednesday morning by the International Women's Club so I thought I would go to the designated meeting place under the Pushkin statue and see what happened. Nothing happened. I wasn`t surprised and was quite prepared with map in hand to have a good old walk about by myself.

This was a good opportunity to find the food market over the side of town where I am going to be living after August. I got completely lost. The map was useless to me because it was in English and all the town signs are in Cyrillic. I didn`t have my specs with me either so couldn't see the map anyway. Nevsky Prospect is the biggest road in St.Petersburg but all the others looked pretty damned the same to me!

GOLD TEETH

I felt quite proud when I finally found the market. I bought some cherries as a reward from a man with a complete set of gold teeth. He was smiling brilliantly with his expensive mouth glowing as I paid a huge amount of money for my cherries! Not surprising he can afford gold teeth. Georgians love gold teeth.

A VISIT TO THE GEORGIAN MARKET

2008-07-08T05:53:00.000-07:00

Just a couple of scenes at the Georgian market and a picture of my three new friends. Is it my imagination or is Nicky (the one in the middle) trying to Nick a watermelon?

MORE HEALTH TESTS

2008-07-08T05:31:00.000-07:00

This is Mike posing before the Church of the Spilt blood. The other is me and several balloons on a river trip at about 11.30 p.m. heading towards the Gulf of Finland.

The title of this blog is referring to the fact that we have been today for a further HIV test. This is Mike`s third and my second. If the visa thing is not sorted within a given time frame we have to have a further test!

BITS AND BOBS

2008-07-08T04:47:00.001-07:00

Just to show you that we make too much fuss about health and safety in the UK. What is the problem with going through this tunnel onto the main river?

I don`t think it really matters that the commentary was in Russian and that this is a tour boat with a lot of people who don`t speak Russian. I guess she probably told us to duck down a little bit but I was too busy standing backwards taking a photo down river to try to interpret. Fortunately I turned around in time to take this shot and avoid having my head left behind as a decoration on the bridge!

Well, I thought you might enjoy that one! This is not a trick photograph, it really was that low!

BACK TO THE AIRPORT!

I forgot to mention that when we returned to St.Pete`s after our lovely few days in Monte Carlo we experienced what I think we have to get used to at the airport.

A couple of large aircraft arrived just before us meaning that the queues for passport control were rather long to say the least. This situation was not improved by the fact that the controllers like to read each passport from cover to cover before begrudgingly letting you into their country.

We had a gaggle of about 25 school girls from Greece in front of us who`s teacher had not had the foresight to make them fill in their landing cards on the plane. As they were writing them out all over the place in front of us, we decided it was a good time to slip in front of them from behind a post! We are not queue jumpers generally but have decided that in Russia, its the only way. Unfortunately, it didn`t go unnoticed either from the girls nor the security. As the man in uniform came up to us to tell us to step back in line, we completely ignored him and pretended we didn`t understand and said in English (he didn`t understand either) that the girls should have filled in their forms on the plane like everyone else and they were holding us up unreasonably (this was true). He didn`t actually care so we continued to the background noise of boos and hissing, quite embarrassing really but I would do it again!

Considering that the above mentioned controls result in people coming through passport control at about one per every two or three minutes, wouldn`t you think they would simplify the system and also delay the luggage to stop it from piling up on the carousel eventually spilling onto the floor. This is clearly not a problem for them but only for the really tired and frustrated people coming to visit their town who have to shift through to hopefully find their bags intact. I hope this was a one off!

A MOSCOW TALE

This seems like a fairly negative blog so far today but I have one more to tell before I get back to some positivity. This was told to me by someone I met over the weekend who lives in Moscow.

A friend of hers is expecting a baby in about 4 weeks. A week or so ago the landlady informed her that now there is going to be an extra person in the flat that she wants another 1,000 euros per month. Do I need to say anymore on that one?!

PHOTO!

2008-07-08T04:05:00.000-07:00

Hopefully, if you scroll around this whole blog site you will find a couple of photos. One is of the current hallway in the service apartment and the other is a picture of the building in which we are going to live from 22nd August.

A TRIP TO PARADISE AND BACK!

2008-07-07T04:26:00.000-07:00

COTE D`AZURE, VERY NICE

I wasn`t going to mention trips away from my new life in Russia BUT then I decided that seeing as though I will probably be the number one reader and I would like not to forget these trips, I would plough ahead regardless.

We arrived at Nice airport at around 10.30 p.m. in a very original way. Our plane (we came in from Zurich) was surrounded by fire engines. Quite exciting if you could get off and watch from the distance but not so when you are told the brakes were smoking but, thankfully, cooling down, and that for safety purposes to remain seated until the crises passes. All is well that turns out well, however, our luggage was equally slow to emerge and therefore we arrived at the Fairmont Hotel in Monte Carlo just in the nick of time to down two stiff gins and tonics with the diehard remainder of the crowd before retiring for a very late night.

I would like to point out that I don`t usually go to bed on two stiff gins and tonics but this was necessary training for the three days and nights to come.

The following morning Mike went off to the meeting and I assembled with some other `spouses` (still about 99 percent women regardless of the modern age we live in) to be taken off to a cookery lesson with Sebastien Paoletti.

The venue was absolutely lovely in the hills, surrounded by beautiful scenery. We were to cook our own lunch having been shown by Sebastien (gorgeous) Paoletti how to do it. This was great for the young Russian wives who were relishing the opportunity to show off to Mr. Paoletti how well they chop and fry whilst still managing to look very sexy but I can honestly say that most of us slightly more mature women were very happy to watch them showing off whilst we gabbed away about what great cooks we are and how we would happily be there without the cookery bit. Still it was a great ambiance and the lunch on the terrace after was great fun.

Feeling a little too relaxed after lunch, we ventured by bus up to St Paul de Vince, a hilltop village for a short visit before returning to the hotel in time for a quick shower before dinner! Dinner was at the Top Cars Museum (one for the boys). I was lucky to have a go in a simulated drive of the Monte Carlo race route, sitting in what seemed like a real racing car with a huge screen in front, it felt very real, except my spectacular crashes. It seems to me that the course is very tight!

This was my first opportunity to meet the expat wives of other Deloitte partners who also live in Russia, mainly in Moscow and Kiev and ask them how they manage. Mostly, they were all quite positive so that was encouraging.

The following day a small group of us ladies walked around the town and up to and around the Grimaldi palace during the morning after which we met up with our husbands for the afternoon tour of Chateau de Cremat to sample the wines and enjoy the scenery. The evening`s entertainment was dinner and dancing at the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel, where we also enjoyed a few fully clothed diving demonstrations from a few of the younger Russian partners. The more exhibitionist Russian wives saw this as a great opportunity to have a sort of unofficial wet t-shirt competition along with an `oh dear, can you really see my sexy underwear which is barely there under my wet white trousers since I fell in the pool?` competition. Needless to say, I didn`t join in with this one. It seems to me that the Russians really know how to have a great party!

Saturday was spent cruising on a very large catamaran up the coastline and back. This was very relaxing and as usual there was plenty to eat and drink. There were only fifteen people on each boat so it was possible to really chill out in preparation for yet another evening of champagne and frolics! This was a much more sophisticated evening than the previous one and 90,000 euros was raised for charity during the course of the dinner!

It was a wonderful gift from Deloittes after only being in Russia for one week to actually be invited on a fab freebie like that but it has to be said that after all the over indulgence of the past four days I was quite happy to return to St.Pete`s yesterday, back to foraging around the town to get a meal together, which is better for my figure! Not to mention all the walking!

HALLWAYS

It was quite a come down to return to our present home to find half the wall of the entrance hall with bricks showing and a huge gap where the plaster has either been knocked off or fallen off, accompanied by a rather unpleasant smell. Well, it`s not gas or mould so I won`t worry too much and it`s not inside my flat so it only bothers me when I venture out. I guess this must be the attitude of most Russian people, just shut the door on it and don`t worry, which would explain why the plaster and dust is all over the floor and stairs and nobody has cleared it up. If it`s still there tomorrow I might set an example but I am rather hoping it won`t be. Of course, the other option I have is to get the bloody property agent to sort it out! Well thought out Susan, after all we are only paying them about 200 euros a night for the privilage of being here!

BEAUTIFUL HOUSEKEEPER LOOKING FOR JOB

Well, it may be unethical to put out an advert but after meeting my cleaning lady about four times she has finally plucked up the courage to give me a hand written note in English which her friend has written out for her saying that what she is actually looking for is an opportunity for her and her 14 year old son to go and live in London. She says it`s her dream. She is looking for something well paid preferably in my home in London (I don`t have one but I didn`t like to disillusion her) where she hopes to fall in love (she doesn`t want Russian man, don`t know why) and have a good life.

I admire her honesty! I think she would have preferred to give this note to Mike but was quite happy to give it to me. Mike would recommend her. He likes the way she comes to work in her `party clothes` and can`t understand why I have never employed a cleaning lady as pretty as this one before. So if anyone is looking for a ur.... housekeeper, this is your chance although you may have to sort out a visa for her or marry her but otherwise... no problem, oh.... except, don`t forget she comes with a 14 year old son and we all know what they can be like!

BITS AND BOBS

2008-07-01T08:40:00.000-07:00

Well, I`ve been here a week now and I must admit to it having felt like quite a long one! I guess that is because of all the new information that is necessary to take in at this stage just so it`s possible to get by. I am sure all these things become second nature but in the meantime it is quite exhausting. It doesn`t help that everything is written in Cyrillic. I am getting used to that but it means just, for example to work out where a particular shop is that might sell shampoo is an effort.

GETTING AROUND

We have not yet ventured out to the big supermarket on the edge of town. That would mean Mike borrowing the Range Rover from the Firm (we may buy it, not sure) or using the driver who is at Mike`s disposal as is required during working hours and we are going to come to an arrangement to use him out of working hours BUT all this takes time and even MORE time in Russia!

So in the meantime, town shopping will suffice. We don`t really want to do a big shop until we move into our apartment anyway. The driver will also be at my disposal when I need but that can all wait until September. It seems to me it is a lot quicker getting around the town any other way than driving so it`s not worth it unless you are covering some distance and carrying a lot of stuff.

ABOUT TOWN

There are many small supermarkets scattered around the town. There is a new one just opened around the corner from this flat. I was disappointed to see that it was exactly the same model as all the others. Tescos could do very well with their Tesco Express model here. I am sure it won`t be too long before the gap is filled in the market but in the meantime...... How can they honestly believe that people want to buy a two week old leek? AND I know next week it will still be there as a three week old leek! This is reminiscent of the Czech Republic when we arrived there in 1994 and it is interesting to see that St.Petersburg is behind. Maybe it`s a different story in Moscow.

Having said that, it is rather amusing to see the range of stuff for sale, some recognisable and some definitely not, still there is no accounting for taste. In one supermarket a lady stands handing out small polythene bags to anyone wanting to buy fresh (fresh?) veg. I don`t think she rations them but I believe in the West we have a little stand that does the job very nicely. It would be really nice if she could give the odd smile, it could even cheer up her day! I try to avoid her because I think she is deeply suspicious that I might try to steal a frozen pigs trotter.

On the subject of freezers, I think the freezers are cold enough because they have to be to function, however, the chilled food sections are quite often not chilled enough. I picked up some butter from one and it was ready to spread very nicely. Some of these cabinets don`t even seem chilled. I don`t think they don`t work I just think it is a way of economising. Bit dodgy. Happily I am aware of this now and will take care not to buy any meat products that don`t seem well chilled. Actually I will probably just buy stuff in the fresh food market or in the big supermarket.

It is a bit of a pain that the tap water is not drinkable. It seems different people have different opinions on this. I have met a very sensible British lady (you know who you are!) who just filters it and uses it, she doesn`t have any problems, although having said this, she is now pregnant. What does that say about the water? I think I will stick to the bottled variety.

It has to be said that an awful lot of strongly coloured bubble bath is required to disguise the muddy colour when a bath is filled.

STUFFED ANIMALS

It seems in Russia that not only is the fur coat still a `must have` for anyone who`s anyone but also they are rather partial to stuffed animals.

I have come across two or three shops selling stuffed animals ranging from quite small, beavers, birds, the odd lynx right up to a massive tiger. There was a severe note written, funnily enough in English, saying not to take photographs. I guess they don`t want the ` save the blah blah from extinction ´brigade onto them, but really it is rather strange. I suppose it means that if you are rich (these shops are in wealthy shopping centres) you don`t have to have a history of game hunting, you can buy one.

THE ROADS

My observation of the roads after my first week is that is very dangerous to cross them without concentration and even then you had better watch out! Some russians don`t feel the need to stop at pedestrian crossings when the little green man is showing so you can`t feel secure even there. I have come across some very selfish driving around europe but never have I come across cars that deliberately drive through pedestrian crossings on red whilst people are crossing. It`s ok so long as you know! It`s not necessarily the ones in the Mercedes with the blackened windows either.

On Saturday at around two in the morning, there was the start of two different races in the palace square, one was a cycle race and the other was a roller blade race. There were literally hundreds of them pouring through the streets of the town all together. Quite a sight but impossible to get through them to cross the road to get to the flat and to bed!

FIRST TRIP OUT OF RUSSIA ALREADY!

Luckily for me, Mike`s firm have arranged a partners meeting in Monte Carlo to which the spouses are invited. We leave tomorrow for 5 days. I am looking forward to this immensely and hope I equally look forward to my return to St.Petersburg next Monday!

Next posting will be next week!

WEEKEND AND WHITE NIGHTS

2008-06-30T00:54:00.000-07:00

BOUNTIFUL BOAT TRIP

As my first social event in St.Pete`s on the Friday night `business party` boat trip I wasn`t really expecting to scoop up all the prizes but that is more or less what happened! Well that was the icing on the cake of a very pleasant evening cruising up and down and around the Neva and eventually down to the Gulf of Finland (sounds a long way but really it isn`t) It provided a great opportunity to take advantage of the long `white night` and it`s special light to take some good photos.

The party crowd were mainly Russians and rather young at that, however, I met a Finnish guy who`s wife and he have a house just down the road from us in Marbella and more coincidentally I met a lady who, like me has just arrived in town from Zagreb! She is not, unfortunately, going to have a lot of time to spare as she has come to set up Belgium`s first consulate here. She was the Ambassador to Belgium in Zagreb. She is great fun and I am sure we will be seeing her again.

On the subjects of boats, we have decided to take a two night cruise in late August on a Russian cruise line to Valaam. Being Russia, booking something like this requires a certain amount of wit and a lot of time. We found the booking office after a long metro ride down to the part of the river where the river boats sail from. This was a good exercise for when we actually take the trip as we now know where to go!

The actual booking of this trip should not be newsworthy and indeed it isn`t accept I wanted to remember the 8 page contract which Mike had to sign twice over, yes 16 times! Of course, we have absolutely no idea what we were signing but one would have thought that paying with a credit card, the full amount up front would be enough to let them know you were pretty serious about keeping your side of the bargain! I think we may have signed a sort of guarantee of good behaviour. Glad I didn`t put my name to that!

THE UNSUCCESSFUL PICKPOCKET

We were aware that people that hang around the exits of metro stations are not always waiting to meet their babushka and help her home with the shopping and we are aware that however much we try, we don`t look Russian and are a tad more vulnerable than most to the odd pickpocket looking for opportunities.

Having successfully left the metro, turned the corner onto a busy street we found ourselves between roadworks on one side and an ice cream vendor on the other, the perfect environment for two tall guys to squeeze Mike in on both sides, quite heavily, making a sort of a jam and pretending Mike was in the way. His arms were pinned down by his sides and that is when the third man, operating from behind went in his pocket. Of course, Mike being Mike, he was wearing his burglar proof rohans, zipped inside pocket ha ha! It all happened so fast that it was difficult to decide what was actually happening and although I was behind all of this I didn`t shout out or anything. Even though I know these things happen I didn`t catch on quickly.

Luckily for us they realized we were getting too much time to recognise them so they gave up and pretended all they were trying to do was turn back to the ice cream vendor (he`s probably getting his cut!) Mike`s zip was half undone so we are sure it really happened.

This has been a good experience as now we will be totally aware. I feel like taking a nice little pin with me when I travel on the metro in case anyone dares try that on me, oooh a pin in the bum would shock them!

BALLET AND BRIDGES

Just to show the B..yyVVV@@@. they didn`t frighten us, we returned the same route that evening, dressed up nicely to go to the ballet and we walked with `attitude` . This is something I will have to do a lot here, walk with attitude. We were rewarded with a wonderful evening of entertainment. Spartacus was spectacular. The colours were nothing short of amazing and the cast huge. It`s the music which the theme to The Onedon Line was taken from. Wonderful and moving.

It`s essential when spending time in the summer in St.Petersburg to see the bridges go up at 1.30 a.m and to drink in the atmosphere. So we went to bed for a couple of hours and got up again at 1.00 to go out and join the merry throng. Walking towards the main river we saw several midnight boat cruises on the canals making their way to the main bridge in time to have a great view.

I am not sure why the bridges going up is so special but it is a focus for celebration and Russians and tourists alike enjoy the atmosphere and the fireworks and free shows etc. There are so many people around at that time it`s difficult to remember it`s the middle of the night. Around 2.00 a.m it is clear that dawn is arriving having just recently experience sunset. The nights are drawing in now though!

KRONSTADT

On Sunday we took a Mike Allen exploratory public transport trip to Kronstadt. Quite an important historic place during the Revolution and is a naval town. It was however, more about the journey itself which included metros, buses, a ferry and a train, leaving little time to explore the town. This is a place that deserves a full day outing. We found the ordinary Russian people very friendly and helpful. The ones who aren`t trying to nick your wallet are very nice!

We arrived at the dock well in time to catch the ferry back to the mainland but were sent back to a park with a little wooden hut to get the tickets! By the time we ran there of course there was a queue, however, we were lucky and caught the ferry, which goes only every two hours. Several people behind us were not so lucky. Why don`t they sell the tickets in the ferry port? One can only imagine it would be too easy.

One interesting comparison is the price of the bus trip which was about 45 minutes long, about 30km and the price of a visit to a loo on arrival. Both cost 15 roubles! The state heavily subsidises public transport but clearly not public loos! 15 roubles is about 20p. I couldn`t tell a Russian that it cost 4 pounds to take a bus ride between Ambleside and Grasmere!

DRESS DOWN FRIDAY

2008-06-27T04:56:00.000-07:00

Well after forty years of donning a suit and tie to the office, Mike is now in an office where it is dress down Friday every day. He only brought about 60 ties and 20 suits (thereabouts) so no big deal. He is compromising and wearing a suit without a tie which for him is a big relaxation. I think he goes to meetings wearing a tie all the same. Well I only really mention this because I liked the title for this blog, so, onto more interesting things.

FRIENDS

Went to a St. Pete`s Tea yesterday afternoon. It actually turned out to be in an Atelier selling Bohemiem crystal, which I am very familiar with but not at these very expensive prices! At least I met some people and experienced my first Russian Champagne (shampanskayeh). Not too bad but this one was a bit sweet for me. Can`t take up afternoon drinking as a hobby anyway. Everyone I met seemed friendly and I made plans to go to the food market with a couple of women on Friday.

On the subject of friends, I have made friends with a very nice old man who lives somewhere in the labyrinth of our present apartment block. He is so charming and speaks English perfectly. His name is Leonard and his dog is Thomas, a lovely collie. He looks very poor and very dignified, is clearly local and I cannot understand where such a man learns such good english. I am determined to ask him. Not everybody in our apartment blocks have renovated apartments and one can only imagine....

There is an elderly couple who appear to live in an equally elderly car within our courtyard. They are not there all the time but seem to sleep there some nights. Another mystery to solve.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

To get to the St. Pete`s tea we rode on a local bus, very civilized almost to the point of being disappointing. It`s probable that buses will be my preferred mode of public transport as the metro is so, so deep down under the ground that the whole journey takes longer than walking for a relatively short distance. I enjoyed the ride on the number one bus to the other side of the river. Nevsky Prospect which is the road similar to Oxford Street but about 10 times longer would be difficult to walk so I will have to do the buses.

There are also small mini buses that you can flag down anywhere and just shout when you want to get off and they screech to a halt (that`s the theory). I must find out what you have to shout. Obviously, they have a set route so you just have to find out the routes. The trams look incredibly tatty compared to other eastern european countries and the tramlines are full of potholes as soon as you are out of the main town centre.

MARKET

Went to a fresh food market this morning. It was a hellova way to walk just for fresh veg. When I move to the permanent apartment I must find something closer. Did take some nice pictures of the river though and saw some very brave people actually swimming in the river, ooooh. The veg. guy wrote my name down on a post along with some other western names so he remembers me next time which I thought was a very nice gesture. Although I suppose you could say it`s good business! Nice opportunity for me to use my few Russian phrases and he seems very tolerant!

The meat looks pretty good so long as you can ignore the flies and the hygiene. I think I will have to do just that because that is just the way it is here. Other people survive (mostly). The fish also looks quite good. A lot of caviar, mainly the orange type. Unfortunately, the price of caviar has rocketted since the fall of communism, one of the downsides.

The pickles are like none other anywhere in the world and I look forward to showing you a photo one day, so colourful and varied.

RECYCLING

There is absolutely no point whatsoever in wearing one`s recycling hat. Nobody is interested. Everything is dumped together. Will keep you posted of any further developments there! It is amazing how weird it feels to throw away thoughtlessly after the short run of training we have had in the UK recently. In fact it shows just how people can be turned around to a more responsible attitude in a really short time. I am going to have to find out more about this issue here.

FRIDAY NIGHT IS MUSIC NIGHT

Must go to get ready for tonight. We are going on a river cruise down the Neva to the Gulf of Finland (sounds a long way but really, it`s not). Invitation says food, drink, networking and dancing. I really wanted to look at the scenery but that might look a tad anti-social? Hope it is a sunny night like last night. It was amazing to experience going to bed at 11.30 with the sky blue and the sun shining!

ARRIVING

2008-06-26T01:55:00.000-07:00

After months of anticipation, we are finally here! Mike has been here already for 3 weeks and as a result, his is a mind filled with local knowledge already, although I suspect he has only scratched the surface of discovering the tools of survival here (and this is summer!)

We are staying for the few weeks until we move to our permanent (I hope I mean semi-permanent apartment) in a small flat on Moika. This is a very well known and popular canal route through the town, very pretty and where we are situated is just three minutes walk from the Palace Sq. where the Hermitage dominates.

Pretty Hallways -

I was prepared, therefore not shocked by the dreadful state of the hallway leading to our flat on the first floor, which is not only has been left untouched for about two hundred years but also the stairs have gradually subsided to an interesting angle. I hope to quickly learn to post photos from my very new camera to be able to show you this amazing hallway which was the subject of my first picture. This is apparently normal here so I was even less shocked to see that we have an equally beautiful entrance to our permanent flat. Although, at least we will have a lift and 24 hour security. There are several codes to learn, from the street entrance into the courtyard and then into the hallway of the flats and then double doors, heavily bolted into the apartment itself. This is also apparently normal so it should be fun visiting friends and actually managing to enter their buildings. I have heard that the main reason for all this security is to stop people being able to enter and find a cosy place to sleep in your hallway!

Theatre Tickets

I was delighted to find the Mikhailovsky Theatre on my first exploration of the city and as a celebration decided to purchase a couple of tickets for Saturday night`s ballet performance of Spartacus which promises to be spectacular. It had better be just that. I thought I was paying about 40 pounds per ticket but it turned out about twice that. That was a quick lesson in calculating the local currency incorrectly! Ah well, I want to go anyway and we have just about the best seats in the house! I am wondering if there is a different price for locals.

Food

I have spent some time over the last two days exploring the possibilities of procuring fresh vegetables from the small local supermarkets dotted about the town. It`s not looking good. I will have to find a fresh food market soon. I have already made a couple of mistakes in purchases. In one small supermarket I was delighted to find some fresh salmon which I was disappointed to find when cooked was heavily salted and cured, a bit like haddock but much saltier. We ate it anyway as we were hungry with frozen spinach. Also I bought yogurt, a very large tetra pack thinking it was milk. Fortunately the seafood products that we love are readily available here, e.g. cold water prawns, smoked salmon, caviar and crab.

The weather has been changeable to say the least but is not cold so I have managed to `hit the bricks` and explore this side of town. The sidewalks are so busy it reminds me of London. There is a great buzz about the place.

Social Life

I am looking forward to meeting some fellow expats this afternoon who I am sure will be full of helpful advice, I must take a notebook!

Thoughts

Have seen already a huge problem with alcohol in Russia. There are people in a terrible state all over the place. Beer is cheaper than bottled water and every evening in the small supermarkets there are queues of poor people purchasing bottles of beer. The young people think nothing of walking around with beer in hand. Fortunately, most of these people are pathetically harmless, just in a horrible state.